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Rio walking tour: the Selarón Steps, Santa Teresa and the old centre

Rio de Janeiro: Santa Teresa Tram Tour, Selarón Steps & Lapa

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The quick version

A Rio walking tour of the old centre climbs the tiled Selarón Steps from Lapa to Santa Teresa and continues to the cathedral, Praça XV and Little Africa.

On the way

  • 215 tiled steps, begun in 19901
  • Tram from Carioca every 30 minutes3
  • Paço Imperial: free entrance4

Look at 57 stops

Rio de Janeiro on the map, district by district

Pick a route, then tap a marker or a stop for notes and a Google Maps link.

Map of Lapa and Santa Teresa with the Selarón Steps, the Lapa Arches, the Carioca tram station, the cathedral and the Theatro Municipal

  1. Jorge Selarón started tiling these 215 steps between Lapa and Santa Teresa in 1990.

    Google Maps

  2. The old Carioca Aqueduct, with 42 large double arches, now carries the Santa Teresa tram.

    Google Maps

  3. Laurinda Santos Lobo's old mansion, now a free cultural centre with a view over the bay.

    Google Maps

  4. Castro Maya's former home, listed by IPHAN in 1974, with art collections on three floors.

    Google Maps

  5. The Santa Teresa tram leaves from here every 30 minutes, 16 passengers to a car.

    Google Maps

  6. A cone 75 m high outside, inspired by Chichén Itzá, with room for 20,000 people standing.

    Google Maps

  7. Opened in 1909 on a design inspired by the Paris Opera; guided visits sell at the box office.

    Google Maps

  8. The historic tea room of downtown, with a second branch inside Copacabana Fort.

    Google Maps

Mapping data © OpenStreetMap contributors

A Rio walking tour through the oldest streets in town: the tiled steps, the aqueduct and its tram, Santa Teresa's hill, the colonial centre and the port where samba began.

Editorial team, riodejaneirotour.click · Updated November 11, 2026 · Takes 8 min

Quick look

  • The steps215 tiled steps between Lapa and Santa Teresa, begun in 1990.1,2
  • The tramLeaves Carioca station every 30 minutes, 16 riders a car.3
  • Free sightsPaço Imperial and the Parque das Ruínas centre charge no entry.4,5
  • Little AfricaA guided heritage walk of 2.5 hours from $39.
  • GuidedTram, steps and Lapa in 4 hours from $71.

A walk through Rio's oldest streets

A Rio walking tour of the centre is a different city from the beaches. Here the streets are colonial, the churches gilded, and the hill behind them holds a neighborhood of 19th-century mansions and stairways.6 The heart of it is a staircase: Jorge Selarón began covering it in tiles in 1990,2 and the city now counts 215 steps clad in thousands of tiles from around the world, linking Lapa with Santa Teresa.1 In 2025 it drew more than 1.5 million visitors, according to the city's tourism observatory.7

From the foot of the steps everything on this page is within walking distance or a short tram ride. Uphill lies Santa Teresa, with its museums and studios; downhill, the Lapa Arches and the cathedral; further north, the old squares of the centre and the port district called Little Africa. The map further down splits this ground into a panel for Lapa and Santa Teresa and another for the historic centre and the port. Plan a full day for all of it, or split it into a morning on the hill and an afternoon downtown.

Walk it in daylight and on a weekday if you can, when the centre is busy with office workers and the museums are open. British travel advice warns that favelas can sit right beside visitor areas,8 and that a phone's walking directions may route you through one, so check the line on the map before you follow it.9 Santa Teresa's lanes wind close to some, so stay on the main streets or go with a guide. The night side of Lapa, with its bars and samba, is a different outing and not part of this walk.

Stops on the walk

What to see, from the steps to the port

StopAreaWhat to know
Selarón StepsLapa and Santa Teresa215 tiled steps1
Lapa ArchesLapa42 double arches24
Parque das RuínasSanta TeresaFree cultural centre5
Metropolitan CathedralCentreSeats 5,00025
Theatro MunicipalCentreGuided visits, groups of 5026
Paço ImperialPraça XVFree entrance4
Valongo WharfLittle AfricaBuilt in 181111

Details from Riotur's pages for each place; opening hours change, so check before you go.15

The Selarón Steps, tile by tile

The stairway climbs from Joaquim Silva Street in Lapa to Pinto Martins Street in Santa Teresa, 5 minutes on foot from the Lapa Arches.15 Selarón was a Chilean artist, and his work gathers tiles from many parts of Brazil and the world.16 Look closely as you climb: national flags, painted scenes and tiles from faraway countries sit side by side. Riotur's own highlights route speaks of more than 200 steps,17 and the city puts the exact number at 215.1

The steps have starred in U2 and Snoop Dogg music videos,18 and in 2015 the city recognized them as part of its historic and cultural heritage.19 That fame brings crowds. Come soon after breakfast for photos without a crowd on every step, or toward evening, when the colors turn warmer. Stand a few flights up and shoot down toward Lapa for the classic view of the whole staircase, and give way to residents carrying shopping up the hill.

The area at the bottom is changing. The city has started building the Boulevard Selarón, an investment of BRL 1.7 million in wider pedestrian areas, level paving, new sidewalks and ramps.20 The plan also adds a drop-off bay for tour buses and vans on Rua Visconde de Maranguape, near the Sala Cecília Meireles concert hall.21 Expect some building work around Joaquim Silva Street while it lasts, and check the route on the day.

Metropolitan Cathedral

The cathedral's cone in metres

  • Outside height75
  • Inside height64
  • Outer diameter106
  • Inner diameter96
  • Main door18

Dimensions as Riotur gives them for the cathedral in the city centre.22,23

The Lapa Arches and the tram up the hill

The white Lapa Arches were built as the Carioca Aqueduct, and they are one of the best known sights of old Rio, with 42 large double arches.24 Riotur calls them the largest architectural work carried out in Brazil in the colonial period.28 Since 1896 the aqueduct has carried the tram that links the centre with Santa Teresa,29 which makes the arches a bridge you can ride across. Walk underneath for the full scale, then look for the tram crossing on top.

The Santa Teresa tram itself dates from 1872 and still works as local transport as well as an attraction.12 It leaves from Carioca station downtown and runs to Dois Irmãos at the end of the line, with a ride every 30 minutes and room for 16 passengers in each car.3 Riotur notes that departure times are estimates and can change,3 so build in a wait. The open sides give you the view; keep bags on your lap and phones in a pocket on the narrow climbs.

A good plan is to ride up and walk down. Take the tram from Carioca to the top of the hill, wander Santa Teresa's main street, then come down on foot by the Selarón Steps into Lapa. You see the arches from above and below, and you finish at the bottom of the steps without climbing all 215 in the heat.1 If the tram queue is long, a taxi or ride app to Largo dos Guimarães does the same job in a few minutes.

Plan your walk

Which way to see old Rio

Choose by time, budget and how much context you want.

  • If I have a single morning

    Tram up, steps down

    The tram leaves Carioca every 30 minutes; walk down by the steps into Lapa.3

  • If I want the history of slavery and samba

    Little Africa walk

    2.5 hours through the port, Pedra do Sal and the Valongo Wharf.

  • If I am on a tight budget

    Free sights and a free walk

    The Paço Imperial and the Ruínas centre are free; the walk starts from $12.4,5

  • If I want architecture inside

    Cathedral and theatre

    The cathedral seats 5,000, and the theatre runs guided visits.25,26

  • If I want it all arranged

    Guided half day

    Tram, steps and Lapa in 4 hours with hotel pickup.

Ways to walk it

Guided walks in old Rio compared

4 hours

Tram, steps and Lapa

Santa Teresa by tram, then on foot

  • PickupIncluded
  • Guide4 languages
  • CancelUp to 24 hours ahead
See this walk

2.5 hours

Little Africa heritage

The port, the wharf and Pedra do Sal

  • StartsMuseu de Arte do Rio
  • GuideEnglish
  • CancelUp to 24 hours ahead
See this walk

Small group

Free downtown walk

Historic centre and Lapa

  • MeetsArcos da Lapa
  • GroupUp to 10 people
  • CancelUp to 24 hours ahead
See this walk

A walking tour of Santa Teresa, house by house

A walking tour of Santa Teresa shows why Riotur calls the neighborhood Rio's Montmartre: a historic, artistic hill just above downtown.27 Riotur's own itinerary lists 8 stops, from museums to studios and a pastry kitchen.98 Its European-style houses, churches, alleys and stairways went up in the 19th century and are still there.6 Walk slowly, look through the gates, and expect cobbles: wear shoes with grip.

Start at the Parque das Ruínas, once the mansion of Laurinda Santos Lobo, the great patron of Rio's Belle Époque.30 The restored ruin is now a cultural centre with free entry and a terrace over downtown and Guanabara Bay.5 Next door, the Chácara do Céu Museum was the home of the collector Castro Maya, and IPHAN listed it as heritage in 1974.31 Its rooms hold art collections from many periods, rare books and furniture.

For a quieter view, the Rato Molhado viewpoint at the top of the hill looks over Guanabara Bay, Santos Dumont airport and Glória.99 Then visit the studios: Bonzolândia, where Getúlio Damado turns cans, bottles and other recycled material into art,100 and the painters' workshops along the main street. Most studios welcome visitors who ask first, and buying a small piece directly from the artist is the best souvenir the hill offers.

Price a guided walk

What a walk in old Rio costs for your group

Choose a walk, then enter how many of you are coming.

Choose from 4 options

What a walk in old Rio costs for your group

Choose a walk, then enter how many of you are coming.

2 people
  1. Tram, steps and Lapa4 hours · for each guest from $71

    ≈

    View
  2. Historic Rio, Santa Teresa4 hours · for each guest from $64

    ≈

    View
  3. Little Africa2.5 hours · for each guest from $39

    ≈

    View
  4. Downtown and Lapa3 hours · for each guest from $61

    ≈

    View

Starting prices on GetYourGuide, exchanged at the ECB reference rate. The booking page gives the exact price.

Old Rio

The centre's story in its buildings

  1. 1743

    A palace for viceroys

    The Paço Imperial is built on Praça XV.10

  2. 1811

    The Valongo Wharf

    Built where enslaved Africans were landed.11

  3. 1872

    The tram arrives

    Santa Teresa gets the tram it still uses.12

  4. 1909

    A theatre opens

    The Theatro Municipal, modelled on the Paris Opera.13

  5. 1979

    A cone for a cathedral

    The Metropolitan Cathedral opens on 15 August.14

  6. 1990

    The first tiles

    Selarón starts work on the staircase.2

The historic centre: cathedral, theatre and Praça XV

Downhill from Lapa stands the Metropolitan Cathedral, opened on 15 August 1979 to a design by Edgar de Oliveira da Fonseca.14 Its cone rises 75 m outside, with an interior 64 m high,22 and it holds 20,000 people standing or 5,000 seated.25 The shape takes its cue from the Mayan pyramid of Chichén Itzá, but round instead of square.32 Inside, the stained-glass windows climb from floor to apex, and the 18 m main door carries 48 bronze panels.23

A few blocks east, the Theatro Municipal opened in 1909 on a design inspired by the Paris Opera.13,33 Guided visits take groups of 50, and tickets go on sale at the theatre box office 30 minutes before each visit.26 Nearby, the church of the Third Order of Saint Francis of Penitence, finished in 1748, ranks, in Riotur's words, among the country's finest Baroque and Rococo interiors in the Portuguese-Brazilian style.101,102 The Real Gabinete Português de Leitura, founded in 1837, keeps 350,000 titles by Portuguese authors in its reading room.35,36

End at Praça XV by the water. The Paço Imperial was built in 1743 as the house of the viceroys and became the seat of the kingdom and empire after Dom João VI arrived;10 today it is a cultural centre with exhibitions all year and free entrance.4 The Old Cathedral nearby is where both emperors, Pedro I and then Pedro II, were crowned, and where the royal weddings took place.103 The CCBB on Primeiro de Março Street has been a cultural centre since 12 October 1989.37

Video

Walking through Santa Teresa, Rio's artistic hill

Sarah Travels on YouTube · Your tap on play is what loads the video.

also known as Rio’s Montmartre, and it’s situated nearby downtown on top of a hill.
Riotur, the City of Rio de Janeiro tourism office27

Before you set off

Old Rio walking checklist

Plan4

  • Allow for the tram: a ride every 30 minutes3
  • Go on a weekday, when the centre's museums are open
  • Buy theatre visit tickets at the box office26
  • Check your GPS route avoids favelas9

On the walk4

  • Reach the Selarón Steps early for photos
  • Wear shoes with grip for Santa Teresa's cobbles
  • Look for Brazilian and foreign tiles on the steps16
  • Book a guide for Little Africa's small sites

A Little Africa tour in Rio de Janeiro, by day

North of the centre, the port district carries a harder history. Little Africa covered what are now Saúde, Gamboa, Santo Cristo and part of downtown, the first home of Africans brought to Rio and of their descendants.39 According to historians, about 1 million enslaved Africans arrived through the Valongo Wharf,40 built in 1811 and remodelled in 1843 to receive the Empress Teresa Cristina.11 The wharf was rediscovered under earth during the Porto Maravilha works.104

Pedra do Sal, a rock on Conceição hill, is where urban carioca samba was born,38 and on National Samba Day, 2 December, the local quilombo community celebrates the washing of the stone.105 The port's renewal began after 2010 and brought several historic places back to light.106 By day the area is quiet and best seen with someone who knows its stories: many sites are small, unmarked or easy to walk past.

A Little Africa tour in Rio de Janeiro with a guide takes 2.5 hours from $39 and has 241 reviews averaging 4.8. It starts in front of the Museu de Arte do Rio and stops at Morro da Conceição, Largo de São Francisco da Prainha, Pedra do Sal, the Hanging Garden of Valongo and the Valongo Wharf. The guiding is in English, and a full refund is possible until 24 hours before. Combine it with the museums on Praça Mauá for a full day in the port.

A free walking tour in Rio de Janeiro, or a paid one

A free walking tour in Rio de Janeiro exists, but read the terms. The listing on GetYourGuide covers historic downtown and Lapa, meets in front of the Arcos da Lapa and keeps groups to 10 people, from $12. Guides work in English, Italian, Spanish and Portuguese. With only 16 reviews it is a small operation, and it suits travelers who want a local's company on a budget and do not mind a simple format.

Paid walks add structure. A historical downtown and Lapa walk of 3 hours starts in front of the Theatro Municipal on Praça Cinelândia, with groups of up to 10, from $61. A downtown walking tour of 4 hours, guided in Portuguese, Spanish, English, Italian or French, starts from $46. For Santa Teresa, the historic Rio half day of 4 hours includes pickup and is wheelchair accessible, from $64.

The listing this page books combines the Santa Teresa tram, the Selarón Steps and Lapa in 4 hours with pickup, from $71, and has 639 reviews averaging 4.4. Its guides speak Chinese, Spanish, English and Portuguese. If you would rather walk alone, use the map on this page and the order above, and keep the guided option for Little Africa, where the context matters most and the small sites are easy to miss.

FAQ

Fast answers to common questions.

How many steps does the Selarón staircase have?
215.

The city counts 215 steps covered in tiles from around the world.1

When did Jorge Selarón start the steps?
In 1990.

He began tiling the staircase between Lapa and Santa Teresa that year.2

How do I get to Santa Teresa?
By tram from Carioca station.

The tram runs to Dois Irmãos every 30 minutes, 16 passengers a car.3

Is there a free walking tour in Rio de Janeiro?
Yes, downtown and Lapa.

It meets at the Arcos da Lapa with groups of up to 10, from $12.

Can I visit the Theatro Municipal inside?
Yes, on a guided visit.

Tickets go on sale at the box office 30 minutes before each visit.26

What is Little Africa in Rio?
The old port district of Africans.

It covered Saúde, Gamboa, Santo Cristo and part of downtown.39

Is the Paço Imperial free?
Yes.

It is a cultural centre with exhibitions all year and free entrance.4

How long does a guided Selarón and Santa Teresa tour take?
About 4 hours.

The tram, steps and Lapa tour lasts 4 hours with pickup.

Sources

  1. Riotur, the City of Rio de Janeiro tourism office · Boulevard Selaron ↩
  2. Riotur, the City of Rio de Janeiro tourism office · Selaron Steps ↩
  3. Riotur, the City of Rio de Janeiro tourism office · Santa Teresa itinerary ↩
  4. Riotur, the City of Rio de Janeiro tourism office · Imperial Palace ↩
  5. Riotur, the City of Rio de Janeiro tourism office · Parque das Ruinas ↩
  6. Riotur, the City of Rio de Janeiro tourism office · Santa Teresa itinerary ↩
  7. Riotur, the City of Rio de Janeiro tourism office · Boulevard Selaron ↩
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